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Preparing for Airsoft Big Games - Prepping for Airsoft DaySIMs/MilSIMS/TACSIT Games

C/O REMF from the Renegade RECON Forums

With each MilSim airsoft big game event I attend, I see an increasing level of authenticity and sophistication. That’s great for those seeking a realistic simulated combat experience but it requires way more gear, preparation and planning than the usual weekend skirmish.

A player attending an airsoft big game these days has to spend longer periods of time operating without a logistical break and hence must be equipped, supplied and prepared to deal with this sort of environment.

Skills that seldom come into play in casual skirmishes are vital in most big games. In weekend games you rarely have occasions to use radios within a larger net where call signs and proper procedures are required. Map reading and orienteering become increasingly important the larger the game. The ability to maneuver with larger tactical units requires knowledge and skills as well as more rigorous physical conditioning.

Gear that is usually just purchased for “show and tell” becomes functional and even essential in many of the larger operations. Packs, LBE, Tac vests, night vision devices, spare batteries and even mortars, anti tank nerf rocket launchers and strategically significant crew served weapons were ever more apparent at many of the recent operations I’ve participated in.

This article is intended to help those planning on attending such an event have an enjoyable experience while making a positive contribution to their assigned unit. There is nothing worse than having a team member show up that is clueless about how to operate autonomously and is a constant burden on teammates because he had no idea what to expect or how to prepare.

Uniforms

The nature of most big games requires that you have a uniform that meets the requirements of your assigned team. Matching BDUs and mandatory head-gear may be the minimum requirement. LBE or an appropriate TAC vest may also be dictated. If you’re assigned to a guerilla unit or irregular force these requirements may be waved and this often allows for a more economical opportunity to participate. If the game is a period piece such as a Vietnam game or WW2 simulation the uniform and even weapons requirements are getting more and more restrictive and participation in those games can get extremely expensive. Regardless of the requirements, one of the things that sets a big game experience apart from a weekend skirmish is the authenticity of the uniforms and the ease by which you can identify friend from foe. Armbands become unnecessary as you can easily spot and identify your opponents often by the silhouette of their distinctive garb or camouflage pattern.

Learn ahead of time what the uniform and gear requirements are and make sure you fully adhere with the minimum requirements before you arrive. Last minute shuffling of personnel is a burden on the sponsors and team leaders. I’ve seen sponsors refuse to allow players to participate when they failed to arrive with the appropriate required uniforms or gear.

Safety

Obviously appropriate eye protection is essential and a weapon that meets the restrictions of the game while still being competitive is vital equipment. Eye and face protection must be comfortable for prolonged periods of time and water and food intake must be considered while tactical. If you have glasses or a lense type mask you should have defogger. A little squeeze bottle of dish washing soap works well. Water in the form of several canteens or a good hydration system is critical even in less temperate environments. A small first aid kit with Band-Aids, bandages, an elastic wrap, eye-wash, towelettes and small scissors are a great idea. Just as in a real unit there should be a more elaborate first aid kit in each platoon.

Hygiene

Other essential gear for a big game operation is: appropriate footwear, spare socks, foot powder, and personal hygiene items. I always pack some of those packaged moist towels for “field baths.” I’m sure my teammates appreciate it. Toilet paper should be packed as I never rely on the sponsors having enough and it provides a number of functions apart from the obvious. (Defogging your goggles among other uses.) A toothbrush is often forgotten as is shaving gear and a small mirror.

Load Bearing Equipment

LBE should be capable of hauling those items immediately required in a variety of field situations while still maintaining reasonable noise discipline. This should be worked out well in advance of your arrival and certainly well before you move out during a game. Support equipment that will allow you to clean and do minor repairs should be available to you. Silicon oil for your weapons and rags are a good idea to have along. Have ample room for spare magazines and a drop pouch. Practice using them in a variety of tactical positions. Things you should have available in your TAC vest or LBE are spare magazines, Ammo (more than you think you’ll need) water, an extra AEG battery, radio, compass and sidearm if so equipped.

Rucksack

A comfortable spacious back-pack with lots of segmented pockets is a must for big games. Though most games provide the opportunity for you to store the pack at a base camp or logistical location it should be thoroughly packed and comfortable to haul for at least medium distances. The pack should have space for extra BBs, additional spare batteries, cooking gear (if used) a flashlight, pogey bait, (snacks and food) more water, duct tape, rags, a barrel rod, cleaning gear, loading tools and hygiene items. When packing spare batteries don’t forget to haul spares for your flashlight, radio and if you have one a night vision device as well.

Though seldom used in casual skirmishes binoculars are great to have in most big games especially for unit commanders. In addition, rain gear, a poncho, a heavier jacket and maybe even a sleeping bag and ground pad. I played in a large game at March AFB and failed to bring a sleeping bag, as it was Southern California and out in the desert. The temperature on the first night dropped to 38 degrees and I was one cold puppy in my BDUs poncho liner and ground pad. I’ll never make that mistake again. Find out what the weather typically is and plan on it being worse! All of your gear should be man portable.

Other Considerations

Don’t forget cans of green gas if you need it. An often overlooked but critical item for most players (especially element leaders) is a small notebook and a few pencils. You’ll need it to record call signs, frequencies, coordinates of objectives, phase lines, codes and sometimes who is doing what. If you have one, a portable GPS is a wonderful thing. Like all gear be sure you know how to use it and have spare batteries for it. When you pack consider noise discipline. I pack spare BBs in an extra wool sock rather than a typical plastic container. Have a sheet with your organization so you’ll always have your unit assignment handy and you can help others stick with their units.

If you’re going with a group of players you know, split up the heavy gear so you won’t be redundant with some items and missing others. Coordinate before hand, who’s bringing what and be prepared to share. Use a checklist. Lay all your gear out in the garage floor before packing as a way to double check you have everything. Put it all on to insure it’s all properly adjusted and you’ll be able to hump and haul what you must and can manage what you packed.

Commo Gear

It is rare to see participants at an airsoft big game without their own personal radio. Small but powerful, these FRS radios have become affordable and quite effective. Go for the kind with a listed 5-mile range and understand that this estimate is a best case scenario. I’ve attached a screw on whip antenna that extends the clarity and range and doesn’t interfere with my movement. Throat mikes and ear pieces are a definite plus but whatever radio you choose, be comfortable with all it’s functions and be prepared to troubleshoot it when necessary.

Night Operations

Big games usually include extensive operations after the hours of daylight. For many players this is the best part of the game. Many players have night vision devices and scopes and some even have thermal sights! At the very least you should have a flashlight with a red lense. Once exposed to a bright light it takes a minimum of 40 minutes to acquire you full nature night vision. Since protective goggles further hinder your natural abilities, night vision is critical. Red is not as destructive of night vision hence I recommend you use red filtered lights if you use lights at all. Glow sticks are great to have and reflective tape on the back of your headgear is highly recommended. A luminescent spot of paint on your front and rear sight is a cheap way to get a bit of an edge. Red dot scopes and laser pointers as well as the awesome Marui tracer units lend a powerful effect on any night game especially when most players use them. The muzzle flash of the tracer units, even when tracer rounds aren’t used, are worth the cost. If you do load tracers, load every third round or so. Remember tracers work both ways. As in a day game you never want to stay in one place too long! Tac lights are very common and highly destructive to night vision so try to keep one eye closed when action is anticipated. Flares and trip strobes are also common in night games. Be sure if you’re using pyrotechnics they have been approved by the sponsors.

Closing Thoughts

Find out what unit you’ve been assigned to early coordinate and plan with your team well before the game. If possible carry around a copy of your table of organization. Find your unit and introduce yourself to your unit commander. Let them know whatever restrictions or special skills or gear you might have and share with them what you like to do. Don’t expect them to necessarily take advantage of that information as their missions will determine how they will be able to use you but at least they’ll know. Stick close to your unit even during the non-tactical phases. Let your squad leader or platoon leader know where you are if you have to go elsewhere for something. Stay informed about departure times, missions and agenda items. If you have physical limitations let your unit commanders know. They’ll have an opportunity to plan or adjust accordingly.

On larger scale games, maps are usually provided. Colored grease pencils to mark overlays are great especially for unit leaders. Have a handy place available to keep your map and if you know how to use it, bring a compass. Once stored know where they are kept so you can get to them when you need them. Most avid players bring a secondary AEG in case their main weapon goes down. Special weapons like LAWs and even mortars are becoming ever more commonplace. If you’re planning on bringing a special weapon have plenty of ammo and be well practiced in its use.

If this seems like way too much work you’re probably not well suited for big game airsoft.

Big Game airsoft is a unique experience that’s not for everyone but for those who are really into it there’s a lot to get into. You’ll be challenged and will be around others who enjoy the challenge. Good luck It’s usually a target rich environment with lots of opportunities to hurl plastic. Be tolerant of the challenges of moving lots of folks through what some times seem like tedious processes.

If you get caught up in an occasional sense of “hurry up and wait” and near total confusion and chaos,remember it only adds to the sense of realism. The first thing that gets lost once the rounds start flying is the plan, so have a contingency worked out with your partners

Hand Signals

C/O Savage Haggis - Op-For Forums

Note to the user: The variety & nature of tactical silent hand & arm signals are vast, differing from various militaries & law enforcement agencies through out the world, with each adopting their own spin on the hand signals required & their meanings. There is no set standard & one can never hope to know them all.

For the purposes of Airsoft I have enclosed the BASIC 16 Hand & Arm Signals most likely to used by players during regular game play & MilSIMS.

Learn & master these & you should be able to carry out most operations with your section.

16 Basic Infantry Hand & Arm Signals

Basic Hand & Arm Signals - Additional

Ok, here's a fairly comprehensive list and description of the BRITISH military hand signals which are nearly identical to those used by the Canadian Forces. You will note that some descriptions match those in the diagram above.

01. Ready to move – Hands moved as if cranking a handle

02. Deploy – Arm extended below shoulder level, waved slowly from side to side, hand open.

03. Advance or Follow me – Arm swung from rear to front below shoulder.

04. Halt or Rest – Arm raised until the hand is level with shoulder. Indicate length of halt by number of fingers. Point to “rest area”

05. Go Back – Hand circled at hip height.

06. Join me – Pat head.

07. Double Time – Clenched fist moved up and down between thigh and shoulder.

08. Enemy seen or Suspected – Thumb down.

09. All Clear – Thumbs Up

10. Scout Group – Clenched Fist with fore finger up

11. Section Commander – Two open fingers held across arm to represent corporal stripes.

12. Platoon Commander – Two open fingers held to shoulder to represent Lieutenant’s Stars.

13. Obstacles – Arms crossed. For water obstacles, make waves.

14. House or Hut - Hands folded in an inverted V

15. Reconnaissance - Hand held to eye, as if looking through an eye glass.

16. Attack – Chopping movement of the hand in direction which attack is required.

17. Move up - Fingers spread, arms swung slowly in the direction movement is required.

18. Form Ambush – Hands placed over face, followed by pointing to the place of the ambush.

19. Freeze & Listen – Hand cupped to ear.

20. O Group – Fingers together moved in conjunction with thumb to indicate person talking.

21. Right or Left Flanking – A curved sweep movement of the arm in direction concerned.

22. Space Out – Left arm extended in front of body, right hand moved towards it and away.

23. Single File – One arm fully extended above head

24. Double File – Both arms fully extended above head

25. Arrowhead Formation – Both arms forced backwards or forwards depending whether arrow is backwards or forwards.

26. Diamond – Arms raised above the head with arms slightly bent so that hands touch to form diamond shape.

27. Extended Line – Arms raised to the side level with the ground indicate flank and which group is to go.

For those wishing an in depth, though non-standardized, manual of hand & arm signals, see here ---> http://www.airsoftgent.be/dbase/hands.htm

The Six Basics of Camouflage and Concealment

C/O St. George from the 2FO Forums - UK Airsoft

These are the reasons how people are seen, and why. I will attempt to explain to you how you can almost completely disappear in the wild. The six reasons all begin with S or M (except one, which begins with C), which is how you remember it, got it? Good. Right then, they are:

1. Shape
2. Shine
3. Shadow
4. Sound
5. Movement
6. Color

Shape

In the wild, you will notice the complete absence in some man-made shapes, for example- triangles and squares. This is because almost nothing in nature is symmetrical. To a human being, the single most distinguishable object in the world, is another human being. So what you want to do is to break up your shape and blend in with the background. Firstly make sure that you are wearing DPM, or some other type of camouflaged clothing, this already begins to break your shape up and blend you into the background. Now to look like Swamp Thing: put two to three elastic bands at uneven distances around each one of your limbs. Now look around on the floor in the type of area you will be hiding in, e.g. ferny, long grass, short grass, etc. Now say you are in an area of long grass, about two or three feet high say. Rip up some of the grass and put it under the elastic bands. The most important thing you must remember while doing this is what it will look like when you lie down. Ideally when you lie down you should resemble some kind of green porcupine, everything should be sticking up, as it would be in nature. Once you've done your elastic bands start stuffing it everywhere, in your webbing, your hair/hat, you boots, anywhere. The basic reason for this is so that when you lie down and crush all of the grass underneath you, there is a still load sticking up in the air to fill the gap. Bear in mind, that if you are travelling through lots of different types of terrain then you will need to keep changing the foliage you are wearing.

I suppose that sky-lining comes into this section as well. Never, ever go along the top of hills or ridges, if you need to walk near the top of a hill then stay 5- 10 meters off the peak. If you walk along the top of a hill then you will stick out like a sore thumb. Think: nice smooth hilltop...tree...tree...walking person making himself very obvious by framing himself against the sky- busted. If you are off the skyline then you immediately become 10 times harder to spot as you are blending in with you surroundings. Also never look over something if you need to see what's on the other side of it, look around it. This is for the same reason, your head will stick out a mile if you start poking it over rocks and mounds, much less obvious to look around the side. Basically you need to remember to break- up the shape of anything man-made and recognisable, including yourself or any vehicles you may have lying around.

Shine

Believe it or not, your skin emits a shine reflected from the sun or moon, that the human eye can detect quite easily. You need to eliminate your skin's shine as well as on anything you might be carrying. To eliminate the shine on most of your clothes is very simple- wear clothes. Trousers, boots, long-sleeved top, some kind of scarf or scrim netting, a hat and gloves will cover a very large proportion of your skin, usually leaving only your face. Obviously make sure that you clothes are camouflaged, and are the right kind of camo, you don't want jungle cam in Antarctica, for example. To eliminate the shine from your face you can either, dunk your head in mud or read How to properly apply Camouflage Face Paint. Simple.

So that's the shine from your skin gone, now shine from things you might be wearing/carrying. If you are wearing a watch, either take it off or make sure it is well covered, though it might be very amusing to shine light in someone's eyes, they will see you, and probably shoot at you. Any jewellery, glass objects (e.g. bottles) should be in a nice bag or a pocket, just use common sense. Now if you are wearing a nice pair of boots that are your pride and joy and you regularly polish them you aren't going to like this. You need to get a few handfuls of mud and grit and slap them all over your gleaming, brand-spanking new boots. It seems a shame, but I assure you they clean up to what they looked like just before (honest). They are also probably black, and pure black doesn't naturally occur in the wild. Follow those steps and you have just eliminated shine, good.

Shadow

This is more important than you might think. You need to constantly be aware of where your shadow is, or it will betray you. If you are hiding behind a few meters behind a bush and the sun is to your one of your sides, and someone is on the other side of that bush, they will see your shadow behind the shadow of the bush. The best way to deal with this is to get into shadow that is already there and get as low as possible. This will eliminate almost all of your shadow.

Sound

Quite obvious; keep sound to an absolute minimum. Anything you have on you that rattles, or squeaks or thuds and bangs when you walk or run must be sorted out. Put a cloth or clothes around anything that rattles, oil anything that squeaks, and soften anything that thuds of bangs. You should be able to jump up and down and only heard the faint sound of your boots hitting the ground.

Shut the #$^% up (You may notice by my strategic use of the word "#$^%" that this is important). Don't talk. Use Military Hand Signals, or some other arranged code to whomever you wish to communicate with. This applies especially at night, because people's sight won't be as good their other senses kick in with style, especially listening. If you are in a group, make sure that everyone gets the messages or signal, or there will be a break- down in communication and everything will (@(&-up.

Movement

If you are hiding, keep as #$^% still as you possible can. Take long, deep, controlled breaths, move absolutely nothing. The human eye will immediately pick up movement (thousands of years ago this was to save us from ambushes from sabre-tooth tigers) and you will be horribly busted. So get comfortable before you settle down. If you have an itch, don't scratch it, if you need to take a piss, don't. After all there maybe someone else who is hidden an looking for you. Move only when you are sure that there are no enemy in the surrounding area. Movement will also scare the wildlife, it will either make them very, very loud, or quiet, too quiet.

Color

The last and probably most obvious point. If you are in a temperate environment wear greens and browns, if you are in the desert, wear yellows, pinks (yes pink- the SAS paint their land rovers pink in the desert) and whites. Arctic conditions call for mainly white. It's pretty obvious.

Use your common sense and stick with these basic rules and you will become virtually invisible to the human eye.