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Pistons/Pistonheads.

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Gunny

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Pistons/Pistonheads.

Post2013-10-20 / 05:28 UTC GMT +00:00

the Piston and piston head is a essential component in your compression formula. The piston rides along x2 rails inside the gearbox shell. The piston gets pulled back by the gears under spring tension. that spring tension gets released which makes the piston slam forward creating a puff of compressed air which is directed through the cylinder, out the cylinder head, out the nozzle, and of course out the barrel.

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The cylinder head is the red part attached to the above picture. The rubber O ring gets compressed against the inner wall of the cylinder which creates a tight air seal which gets moved to the barrel.

Piston heads are held into place by a single screw that connects it to the piston.

The main materials used in piston heads are polycarbonate and aluminum. I only have experience with polycarbonate pistons heads. The reason I like them is because they are strong and light. The lighter you can make your piston and piston head combination the better it will be for your gearbox shell (less chance of it cracking) I have stripped stock pistons before but I have yet to strip the piston on my Guarder polycarb piston and piston head. (2+ years of gaming)

But of course aluminum piston heads will be stronger and generally last longer than a full polycarbonate piston head.
So the big question. What is the best piston?

I am a fan of full polycarbonate pistons with 1 steel let off tooth. Eventually the best piston in the world is going to strip or break. I believe it is better to break a plastic piston once in a blue moon than breaking a steel rack piston and letting that steel do further damage to expensiveinternal parts like gears. When a piston breaks I rather have plastic confetti in my gearbox rather than metal chunks that will do further damage.

Polycarbonate pistons are generally lighter which will result in higher rate of fire and better trigger response than a heavy piston/piston head combination.

Steel tooth pistons generally don't strip, but the metal on metal contact with the gears does cause the metal to wear down resulting in a inevitable failure. (picture above is of a full steel tooth piston)

And of course there are 7 tooth steel pistons which has 7 steel teeth and the rest polycarbonate. I guess these pistons are a hybrid of the 2 types. (first pic below)

For a Designated Marksman Rifle shooting 450FPS I would recommend a steel rack piston for its durability because of the low rate of fire in semi compared to full auto use. For a Carbine rifle capable of full auto I would recommend a full polycarb piston with 1 steel let off tooth. (second pic below)
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I'm sure there is something I am missing but its late and im going to bed. if I think of something else ill be sure to edit this thread.

if you have any questions please feel free to post away.
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Tjfast

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Re: Pistons/Pistonheads.

Post2013-10-20 / 06:06 UTC GMT +00:00

sorbo pad compatible piston heads?
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Gunny

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Re: Pistons/Pistonheads.

Post2013-10-21 / 03:41 UTC GMT +00:00

Tjfast wrote:sorbo pad compatible piston heads?

not too sure about stock piston heads that are sorbo pad ready. as long as the sorbo pad is not covering the compression holes in the piston head your good to go. I don't have much experience with sorbo pads but I do know there are ones out there that you cut to size so its very user friendly.
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Re: Pistons/Pistonheads.

Post2013-11-04 / 19:25 UTC GMT +00:00

I use sorbo in a couple, as gunny says they cant cover the air hole to the nozzle and they must be secured well or they will pile up inside you cylinder, also your gear to piston teeth contact can be mis -alined (piston set to far back when it is at rest due to the thickness of the pad) not good when you pull the trigger!
you went FULL RETARD!!
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cook-off

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Re: Pistons/Pistonheads.

Post2013-11-04 / 19:27 UTC GMT +00:00

one of the best general purpose pistons I have found, is the MAD-BULL green full metal teeth, extreamy strong and light, for $20 state side you cant go wrong!
you went FULL RETARD!!

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